Why This Watch Matters

This Vacheron Constantin 222 features an uncommon silver dial and is accompanied by its original box and papers. What more could you ask for? 

The Full Story

The watch world was in flux during the 1970s. The Quartz Crisis was reaching a fever pitch, and Swiss watch companies had to make some changes to capture the attention of an evolving audience. This result was a select few prestigious Swiss marques decided to tip their toes into the terrain of luxury sports watches, resulting in iconic models like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus and IWC Ingenieur SL in 1976. One year later, Vacheron Constantin released the 222.

All of these watches had a similar aestheic but were executed in different ways. The Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur were all designed by Gérald Genta, and it's a common misconception that the 222 was as well, but it was actually designed by Jörg Hysek. The Royal Oak, Nautilus, and 222 all shared the same movement inside, the ultra-thin Jaeger-LeCoultre 920. Although these four watches all look very similar, they have subtle differences that make them unique. The 222 has a gold Maltese Cross on the case at five o’clock and a scalloped bezel. The 222 is also the only one of the quartet to feature a dial without any texture. It features a one-piece case, so in order to access the movement, the bezel has to be unscrewed and the crown and dial removed. 

The 222 was revealed in 1977 to celebrate Vacheron Constantin's 222nd anniversary. The firm offered this watch in two sizes, a Jumbo version at 37mm, like the example here, and a mid-sized 34mm case. Vacheron also offered this watch in all-steel, two-tone, and full yellow gold. In the stainless steel designs, Vacheron offered the watch with either a black or silver dial. The darker dial is more common. The lume on the hands and hour markers has developed even patina. 

To top it off, this watch has its original box, the filled-in papers, and two extra bracelet links. The little envelope that the papers come in has the case number on its outside, which is a nice touch. Vacheron confirmed the production date on this 222 as 1980, but the papers are dated to 1986, a few years after production of the 222 was ceased and six years after this example was made. This is not uncommon for original 222s, because even the Royal Oak and Nautilus tended to sit around at authorized retailers for years at a time. It is estimated that Vacheron Constantin only made around 500 stainless steel examples of the 222 during its seven year production run, making this silver dialed example quite rare.

The 222 eventually inspired today's popular Overseas collection from Vacheron, but these original designs offer extraordinary value, especially when compared to Royal Oak and Nautilus watches of the same era. The latter are going for significantly higher prices, but it's worth noting that there are less 222s – especially in this condition – on the market at any given time. 

The Fine Print

Maker: Vacheron Constantin 
Model: 222 
Reference: 44018-411
Year: Circa 1980; sold in 1986 
Case No: 522438
Material: Stainless steel 
Dimensions: 37mm diameter (measuring from 3 to 9 o’clock); 7.5mm thickness 
Crystal: Sapphire 
Lume: Yes, tritium 
Caliber: Automatic JLC 920 / VC 1121 
Bracelet/Strap: Vacheron Constantin stainless steel integrated bracelet 
Lug Width: N/A 
Box/Papers: Yes, this is accompanied by its original box, the original guarantee, and two extra bracelet links 

What we Love and What You Should Know

This 222 is in excellent condition. The case and bracelet are in great shape with some light scratches and handling marks. The bevels on the case are all clearly visible. The caseback,  case numbers, and 222 engraving are all visible and crisp. The case and bracelet appear to be unpolished. The dial and hands are in great condition with light patina on the hour markers and hands. The edge of the dial shows some signs of wear. The lume on the hands and dial are matching in color. The bracelet is in great shape and does not have much stretch. This watch looks like it was well taken care of and not worn much after its purchase in 1986.